In short

A tech pack’s price is the hours behind it: drawing, measuring, grading, specifying and revising. Complexity, sizes and colourways drive it, and patterns are usually extra. Check any quote as hours times a rate. For a first sample a reference garment can be enough, but bulk production needs a full, checked specification.

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A tech pack costs the hours behind it times the rate of whoever writes it, and the hours depend on how complex the garment is, how many sizes are graded and whether a pattern is included. There is no official price list. As an illustration, at the 2025 US median wage for fashion designers of US$38.92 an hour, a basic tee in five sizes at an assumed 6 hours comes to about US$234, and a lined jacket at 25 hours to about US$973. You do not always need one: a reference garment and a clear brief can be enough for a first sample, but you need a complete specification before bulk production.

What are you actually paying for?

A tech pack is the written specification a factory builds a garment from: flat sketches, a measurement chart for every size, fabric and trims, construction, artwork placement, labels and packing. Our guide on how to write a tech pack goes through each section in order, so this article only deals with price, scope and whether you need one.

When someone quotes for a tech pack, they are pricing four kinds of work:

  • Drawing: front and back flats, and close-ups of details such as a pocket, a placket or a hood.
  • Measuring and grading: points of measure for the base size, then the increments for every other size.
  • Specifying: fabric composition and weight, trims with references, stitch and seam types, labels, packing.
  • Revising: updating the document after each sample round, which is where many cheap quotes stop.

A pattern is a separate piece of work. It is often bundled with the tech pack by a studio or a sample room, and often left out by a freelancer who only draws.

Hands pin buttons onto a white trim board laid out with blank labels, zipper pullers and drawcord tips beside a folded navy T-shirt

Freelancer, studio or factory: what each one includes

There are three common routes, and they differ more in what is included than in the headline price.

RouteUsually includesOften excludedBest for
Freelance technical designerFlats, measurement chart, bill of materials, construction notesPattern, grading beyond the size chart, revisions after samplingA founder who knows the fit and needs it written down
Design or development studioTech pack, pattern, graded sizes, sometimes a first sampleBulk production; sometimes the pattern files themselvesA new range where fit has not been decided
Factory or buying house sample roomPattern, sample, and a working specification built from your brief or reference garmentDesign ideas; often tied to producing with that supplierA founder with a reference garment and a clear idea of changes

Before comparing prices, ask each provider the same four questions: is the pattern included, how many sizes are graded, how many revision rounds are covered, and in what file formats you receive the result. Two quotes that answer these differently are not comparable, whatever the number at the bottom.

What makes one tech pack cost more than another?

The same provider can charge very different amounts for two garments. The drivers are predictable:

  • Number of pattern pieces. A basic tee has a front, a back, two sleeves and a neck rib. A lined parka can have dozens of pieces, each needing a construction note.
  • Number of sizes. Each extra size is another column of measurements to grade and check.
  • Colourways and artwork. Every colourway needs its own trims, thread colours and artwork placement.
  • Technical features. Bonded seams, taped zips, stretch fabrics and moulded parts need more specification than a cotton jersey tee.
  • Revisions. A tech pack that is updated after a fit sample is a living document. If revisions are billed separately, the first price is not the final one.

How to check a tech pack quote

Since the work is priced in time, the most honest way to check a quote is hours multiplied by a rate. For a reference rate, the US Department of Labor’s O*NET database, using Bureau of Labor Statistics data, lists a 2025 median wage of US$38.92 an hour for fashion designers and US$30.17 an hour for fabric and apparel patternmakers. These are employee wages in the United States. A freelancer’s rate must also cover their overheads, software and unbilled time, and rates differ widely between countries, so treat the wage as a floor for comparison rather than a price.

The table below shows the arithmetic with hours invented for illustration only. They are not quotes from anyone.

Garment (illustration)Assumed hoursAt US$38.92 an hour
Basic tee, 5 sizes, 1 colourway6US$233.52
Hoodie with pocket and print, 6 sizes12US$467.04
Lined jacket with zips and taped seams25US$973.00

Use the method, not the numbers. Ask a provider how many hours they expect and what their rate is. If a price implies an hour or two for a complex jacket, something has been left out: usually grading, the pattern or revisions.

Do tech packs include patterns?

Not by default. A tech pack describes the garment. A pattern is the set of shapes the fabric is cut from, one for each piece and each size. O*NET describes a patternmaker’s job as drawing precision master patterns, computing dimensions according to size while allowing for the stretch of the material, and creating a master pattern for each size in a range. That is a different skill from drawing flats.

The two work together. The tech pack says the chest measures a certain width in size M; the pattern is shaped so that the sewn garment, in that fabric, actually measures that width. If you only have a tech pack, a factory will make the pattern itself, and it will usually keep the pattern files unless you have agreed otherwise. If you pay for a pattern, ask for the digital files in a format your future factory’s CAD system can open, and ask which format that is before you commission the work.

Want a real costing for your style?

Send the tech pack or a reference garment with your quantity and market. We reply within one working day, and the costing shows what sits inside the price.

Cutter guiding a straight-knife cutting machine through layered white fabric
Photo: our sister factory in Narayanganj

Are tech packs necessary?

For bulk production, yes: something has to state the measurements, materials and tolerances that an inspection will check. The evidence on what happens without clear specifications is strong. In a 2016 ILO survey of 1,454 suppliers in 87 countries, 72 per cent said inaccurate technical specifications from buyers led to additional time and costs spent on sampling, 66 per cent said they increased production costs, and 50 per cent said they even led to a financial loss.

For a first sample, not always. You can often start without a formal tech pack when:

  • you have a reference garment whose fit you like, plus a short written list of changes;
  • the product is simple, such as a tee or a hoodie in a standard fabric, and the sample room builds the specification as it goes;
  • you are decorating an existing base garment rather than developing a new fit.

In each case the specification still gets written; the question is only who writes it and when. A good sample room turns your reference garment and notes into a working specification, and our sampling and product development service works this way. What you must not skip is checking that document before bulk, because it becomes the standard the goods are inspected against.

Who owns the tech pack and the pattern?

Ownership is a contract question first, and the default rules may surprise you. In the UK, the explanatory notes to the Intellectual Property Act 2014 state that for unregistered designs, in the absence of a contract to the contrary, the designer is the first owner, not the person who commissioned the design. The UK government’s guidance adds that unregistered design right protects the shape and configuration of three-dimensional objects automatically, for 10 years from first sale or 15 years from creation, whichever ends first.

Other countries have different rules, and this is not legal advice. The practical step is the same everywhere: before you pay, get a short written agreement that assigns the tech pack, the pattern and any design rights to your company, and says you receive the editable files. A document you cannot take to another factory is worth less than one you can.

Can AI make a tech pack?

AI tools can help with the parts that are text: drafting construction notes, listing trims, tidying a bill of materials, or turning a rough description into a first set of headings. Some can produce flat sketches from a reference image. What they cannot do is measure a garment on a table, know how your chosen fabric behaves when sewn, or know how a particular factory constructs a seam. Every number an AI tool produces needs to be checked against a real garment or a real pattern. Treat it as a faster way to write the first draft, not as a replacement for a fit sample.

A sensible route for a first collection

  1. Start with our free tech pack template and fill in what you know: fabric, colours, artwork and a size chart if you have one.
  2. Find a reference garment for each style and note what to change, in centimetres where you can.
  3. Decide whether you are buying a document, a pattern or both, and get the ownership agreement in writing.
  4. Pay for detailed specification only where it saves money: complex styles, many sizes, or garments you will reorder.
  5. Update the document after every sample round, so the version the factory holds matches the approved sample.

For a simple product such as a tee, the route is short; our t-shirt manufacturing page lists what a factory needs to quote one.

What to do next

If you have a reference garment, sketches or a partial tech pack, send what you have through our quote request form. We reply within one working day, tell you which gaps matter for costing, and explain what can be built from your brief at the sampling stage before you spend money on a full specification.

Questions buyers ask.

Are tech packs necessary to start production?

For bulk production, yes: something has to state the measurements, materials and tolerances that an inspection will check. For a first sample, not always. A sketch with key measurements, or better a reference garment whose fit you like plus a short list of changes, lets a sample room build the pattern and write the specification as it goes, and that works well for simple products such as a tee or a hoodie in a standard fabric. Skipping the specification altogether is costly: in a 2016 ILO survey of 1,454 suppliers in 87 countries, 72 per cent said inaccurate technical specifications from buyers added time and cost to sampling, and 50 per cent said they had even led to a financial loss. So whoever writes it, check the specification that comes back from the sample room, correct it, and approve it in writing before any fabric is cut, because it becomes the standard your goods are inspected against.

How much does a tech pack cost?

There is no set price: a tech pack costs the hours it takes multiplied by the rate of whoever writes it. For a reference rate, the US Department of Labor's O*NET database lists a 2025 median wage of US$38.92 an hour for fashion designers and US$30.17 for fabric and apparel patternmakers. Those are employee wages in the United States, so treat them as a floor; a freelancer's rate must also cover overheads and software, and rates differ widely between countries. As an illustration only, with invented hours, a basic tee in five sizes at 6 hours comes to US$233.52 at the designer wage, and a lined jacket with zips and taped seams at 25 hours to US$973.00. The hours rise with pattern pieces, sizes, colourways, technical features and revision rounds. Before comparing quotes, ask each provider whether the pattern is included, how many sizes are graded, how many revisions are covered and which file formats you receive.

Is a tech pack the same as a spec sheet?

People use the words loosely, and in many factories they mean nearly the same thing. Strictly, a spec sheet is usually the measurement part: the points of measure, the value for each size and the tolerances. A tech pack is the whole file, which includes the spec sheet plus flat sketches, the bill of materials, construction details, artwork placement, labels and packing instructions. The difference matters when you compare quotes. A provider offering a spec sheet may give you an excellent measurement chart and nothing else, while a tech pack quote should cover the full file. If a price looks low, ask which sections are included and whether the measurements are graded for every size or only given for the base size. A measurement chart for one size is a starting point, not something a factory can produce a full size range from.

Does a tech pack include the pattern?

Not by default: a tech pack describes the garment, while a pattern is the set of shapes the fabric is cut from, one for each piece and each size, and it is a separate piece of work. A studio or a factory sample room often bundles the two, and a freelancer who only draws often leaves the pattern out. If you only have a tech pack, the factory will make the pattern itself and will usually keep the pattern files unless you have agreed otherwise. If you pay for a pattern, ask for the digital files in a format your future factory’s CAD system can open, and check which format that is before you commission the work. When comparing quotes, ask each provider whether the pattern is included.

Who owns a tech pack or pattern that I pay a freelancer to make?

Ownership depends first on your contract, and without one the default may not favour you: in the UK, the explanatory notes to the Intellectual Property Act 2014 say that for unregistered designs the designer, not the person who commissioned the work, is the first owner. UK government guidance adds that unregistered design right protects the shape and configuration of three-dimensional objects automatically, for 10 years from first sale or 15 years from creation, whichever ends first. Other countries have different rules, and this is not legal advice. Before you pay, get a short written agreement that assigns the tech pack, the pattern and any design rights to your company and says you receive the editable files, because a document you cannot take to another factory is worth less than one you can.

Can AI make a tech pack for clothing?

AI tools can draft the text parts of a tech pack, but they cannot replace measuring a real garment or making a fit sample. They help with construction notes, trim lists, tidying a bill of materials and turning a rough description into a first set of headings, and some can produce flat sketches from a reference image. What they cannot do is measure a garment on a table, know how your chosen fabric behaves when sewn, or know how a particular factory constructs a seam. Every number an AI tool produces needs checking against a real garment or a real pattern before it goes to the factory, because the approved specification becomes the standard your goods are inspected against. Treat AI as a faster way to write the first draft.

Should I use a freelancer, a design studio or a factory sample room for my tech pack?

Use a freelance technical designer if you already know the fit and need it written down, a design or development studio if the fit has not been decided, and a factory or buying house sample room if you have a reference garment and a clear idea of the changes. A freelancer usually supplies flats, a measurement chart, a bill of materials and construction notes, but often leaves out the pattern, grading beyond the size chart and revisions after sampling. A studio usually adds the pattern, graded sizes and sometimes a first sample. A sample room builds the pattern, the sample and a working specification from your brief or reference garment, but is often tied to producing with that supplier. Compare what each includes before comparing prices.

What is the most cost-effective way to get a tech pack for a first clothing collection?

Start with a free tech pack template, fill in what you already know, and pay for detailed specification only where it saves money: complex styles, many sizes or garments you will reorder. Find a reference garment for each style and note the changes, in centimetres where you can, so a sample room can build the specification from it. Decide whether you are buying a document, a pattern or both, and get the ownership agreement in writing before you pay. Then update the document after every sample round, so the version the factory holds matches the approved sample. For a simple product such as a tee or a hoodie in a standard fabric the route is short, because a reference garment and a clear brief can be enough for the first sample.

Sources

Checked . Rules and figures change, so confirm anything that affects your pricing.

  1. O*NET OnLine (US Department of Labor) — Fashion Designers 27-1022.00 (2025 median wage US$38.92 an hour) (opens in a new tab)
  2. O*NET OnLine (US Department of Labor) — Fabric and Apparel Patternmakers 51-6092.00 (tasks; 2025 median wage US$30.17 an hour) (opens in a new tab)
  3. International Labour Organization — Purchasing practices and working conditions in global supply chains: Global Survey results (72% of suppliers: inaccurate specifications add sampling time and cost) (opens in a new tab)
  4. legislation.gov.uk — Intellectual Property Act 2014, explanatory notes on section 2 (designer is first owner of commissioned unregistered designs) (opens in a new tab)
  5. GOV.UK — How your unregistered designs are protected (scope and 10 or 15 year duration) (opens in a new tab)

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